Enobytes Wine Blog

I’m not much of a Harlequin romance writer when it comes to writing about wine, but every once in a while I find a story that captures the essence of a region’s past, which soundly shapes it’s future. Oregon’s roots to Riesling are comparable to a river shaped by the water for which it flows, ever shifting as it seeks a path of least resistance, cutting through time and history. Gone, are the preconceived conceptions of style as the masters mold their Rieslings into a personality anyone can appreciate.

Back in the 60’s, the romanticism started as a number of U.C. Davis expatriates embraced the Oregon landscape hoping to produce great wines from Burgundian varietals. Richard Sommer, one of the first Oregon pioneers in the early modern era planted Riesling near Roseberg (now known as the Umpqua appellation) as David Lett planted Pinot noir, Chardonnay and Pinot gris in the Willamette Valley. Since then, Riesling continues it’s ever-shifting path of styles and personality, growth and attrition.  In the early 80s, Riesling accounted for nearly a quarter of Oregon’s production. In ‘95, roughly 710 acres dwindled to 524 acres in ten years, accounting for less than four percent of the state’s total acreage in 2005, but a rebound is on the horizon. Forget about the days of relatively low quality, transitional wines. Today’s Oregon Rieslings are full of life and passion, rich in personality and expression.

After tasting a number of great Pinot noirs at the International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC),  Marc and I headed to the Dundee Bistro in Dundee, OR for an Oregon Riesling tasting like no other. Hosted by Harry Peterson-Nedry (Chehalem), Adam Godlee Campbell (Elk Cove) and Sheila Nicholas (Anam Cara Cellars), we tasted through a flight of 24 Oregon Rieslings with Sarah Jane Evans (MW), Joe Butler (MW), Lisa Shara Hall, Senior Editor at Wine Business Monthly and other media attendees.

All of the producers pouring at this event belong to the Oregon Riesling Alliance (ORA).  Their mission is to bring the passion back in Oregon Riesling, but frankly, I don’t think they’ll need much help as the wines that were represented at our tasting were some of the finest Rieslings Oregon has to offer in terms of quality and breadth. Each wine reflects the nuances of it’s terroir at a level that is quite exceptional.

Now on to my straight shooter reporting style — If you want to experience what Oregon Rieslings have to offer, seek out some of these wines, which I consider the crème-de-la-crème for Oregon Rieslings.

Notes: All wines are dry; RS=Residual Sugar; ABV=Alcohol by Volume.

Exceptional

2008 Anam Cara Nicholas Estate Riesling: A beautiful Riesling with aromas of apple and peach; extremely well balanced in texture and acidity leading to a creamy long finish; 230 case production;  RS: 1.67%; 11.6% ABV ($22)

2006 Belle Pente Willamette Valley Riesling:  Aromas of floral and sweet orange blossom followed with notes of lemon, apricot and mineral; great acidity; great balance with a long concentrated ripe finish; 295 case production: RS: 1.08%; 13.6% ABV ($20)

2007 Chehalem Reserve Dry Riesling: A rich and bold Alsatian styled Riesling with bright acidity and concentrated favors of stone fruits and grapefruit leading to a spicy, minerally medium-long finish. 619 case production; RS: 0.44%; 12.5% ABV. ($21)

2007 Chehalem Corral Creek Riesling:  Bright acidity with apple, apricot, lemon and pear flavors; feisty and weighty with excellent textures and balance ending with a mineral and honey finish; 107 case production; RS: 1.1%; 11.83% ABV. ($24)

2007 Elk Cove Riesling:  Elk Cove has produced Riesling since 1978 and their experience shows; great balance and acidity with notes of apple and pear finishing smooth with hints of melon and honeysuckle; 786 case production; RS: 1.7%;  12.0% ABV.  ($19)

2008 Siltstone Riesling:  First vintage Riesling producing a well-respected effort; lavished and balanced with good acidity and clean flavors of pear and apple; great structure and balance; 70 case production; RS: 0.78%; 12.5% ABV.  ($15)

Very Good

2007 Anam Cara Nicholas Estate (Chehalem Mountains) Riesling:  Wonderful flavors of peach and tart citrus fruit; nice mineral finish and great acidity; 200 case production, RS: 1.5%; 11.9% ABV ($22)

2007 Brandborg Vineyard Umpqua Valley Riesling:  A zippy, tart Riesling with green apple flavors finishing with a creamy long finish; RS: 1.2%; 13.1% ABV ($16)

2008 Chehalem Sext Riesling:  A semi-sparkling dessert wine with aromas and flavors of orange blossom and peach cobbler; lively acidity leading to a creamy, dessert-like finish; 110 case production; RS: 4.8%; 9% ABV. ($24)

2006 Elk Cove Riesling:  Mineral and flint nose with green apple and grapefruit favors; good acid structure with a dry long finish; 1040 case production; RS: 0.6%; 13.0% ABV. ($19)

2008 Hawks View Cellars Chehalem Mountain Riesling:  An approachable tangy and floral wine with hints of apricot packaged with good acidity and a clean, flinty finish; 161 case production; RS: 2.0%; 13.5% ABV. ($24)

2007 Lemelson Willamette Valley Riesling:  Lemon zest and kiwi flavors wrapped in a delicate package of floral and spice; good acidity and balance with a creamy finish; RS: 0.70%; 12.0% ABV. ($20)

2008 Montinore Riesling: Smooth and round with flavors of lime, grapefruit and tangerine; good acidity followed with a medium-long mineral finish; RS: 2.2%; 11.4% ABV. ($10)

2007 Penner-Ash Riesling:  Fruity with good acidity and medium-long mineral finish; 385 case production; RS: 1.2%; 12.5% ABV. ($18)

2007 Trisaetum Riesling:  Grapefruit and peach favors with a good amount of bright acidity; well balanced with a minerally long finish; 400 case production; RS: 1.6%; 11.5% ABV. ($28)

Good

2006 Amity Willamette Valley Riesling:  Pear and peach favors; smooth and crisp; balanced with a clean finish; 399 case production, RS: 1.48%; 12.1% ABV. ($18)

2007 Amity Willamette Valley Riesling:  Grapefruit and lemon zest favors with a zippy and flinty finish; full-bodied, good acidity; 418 case production, RS: 1.14%; 11.0% ABV ($18)

2007 Anne Amie Estate Yamhill-Carlton AVA Riesling:  Aromas of apricots and white peaches with grapefruit and apple flavors; 540 case production: RS: 1.08%; 12.09% ABV ($25)

2008 Argyle Riesling:  Peachy and lemony with a hint of spice; slightly sweet medium-long honey finish; 840 case production: RS: 1.1%; 14.0% ABV ($25)

2007 Brooks Willamette Valley Riesling:  Orange blossom and petrol aromas with good clean lime and mineral flavors; long, tart finish; 1081 case production; RS: 0.6%; 11.1% ABV ($18)

2006 Daedalus Riesling:  Malolactic fermented with round medium-bodied texture; hints of peach and lime; 165 case production; RS: 1.29%; 12.8% ABV. ($18)

2007 Daedalus Riesling:  Malolactic fermented with good structure and floral notes;  130 case production; RS: 1.07%; 13.8% ABV. ($18)

2007 King’s Ridge Riesling:  Sweet peach flavors with a round mouth-feel finish; 615 case production; RS: 2.62%; 12.16% ABV. ($12)

2007 Willamette Valley Vineyards Riesling:  Floral nose with honeydew and melon favors; 23,500 Case production; RS: <5%; 10.0% ABV. ($12)

~Pamela Heiligenthal