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An Interview with Eric Guerra

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If you have not seen or heard of Eric Guerra wines, you soon will. Inspired by passion, his new line offers prestige small-lot artisan wines that represent the diversity of what Sonoma County wines have to offer. In his lineup, he offers wines that balance between elegance and intensity.

Offering three varietals, his 2005 Alexander Valley Ispiri, or "it inspires" in Italian, has made it’s inaugural debut this month. Consisting of 81% Merlot and 19% Cabernet, its inspired by old world traditions instilling right-bank Bordeaux style characteristics. Most of the fruit for Ispiri comes from SkyPine Vineyards nestled atop Pine Mountain.

Winemaker, Leslie Sisneros & Founder, Eric Guerra
Winemaker, Leslie Sisneros & Founder, Eric Guerra

Guerra’s 2005 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, also released this month, is rich and complex with fruit picked from Demattei Vineyards on Pine Mountain. The estate is located on the southwestern slop of the Mayacamas Mountain Range. The Pinot Noir eludes delicate yet complex characteristics, which displays how this varietal can thrive in a microclimate produced at JMT Vineyards in Russian River. The Pinot Noir is scheduled to be released in the spring of 2008.

Entering into the professional wine business as the Brand Manager at Kendall-Jackson, it was there where Eric gained a phenomenal amount of experience in the wine industry. It was also there where he experienced a moment of inspiration; a revelation that would change his life forever. His journey leads him to an ever-challenging venture of opening his own winery and creating wines that inspire.

In this interview, Guerra answered questions about his journey leading up to building his own brand as he shares his passion for his new endeavor.


When did you start in the wine business and what was your motivation?

My first experience with wine was with Callaway Winery. While going to school at San Diego State I drove to Temecula one day and I ventured into Callaway’s tasting room. I remember entering their facility and tasting a very intriguing, very special product. This was when my passion for wine started.

Later, when I was living in Los Gatos, I meet a very good friend of mine who was a Brew Master at the Los Gatos Brewing Company. He was also a winemaker on the side and a U.C. Davis graduate and he had relationships with wineries in the Los Gatos hills.

Founder, Eric Guerra
Founder, Eric Guerra

I use to meet him at David Bruce where he would work from time to time. He wasn’t teaching me how to taste wine; instead, I was learning the real intricacies of wine by walking the vineyards with him, learning how wine barrels were made, styles of wine etc.

At the time I was working in the high-tech feild. After 9-11, when my high tech job went bust, I remember turning to my wife and asking her, "Is it ok if I do what I would love to do instead of what I have to do?" and she replied, "Sure".

I went out on a couple of wine industry interviews and the funny thing about this story is that when I was working at a software company as the Director of Marketing, I had people reporting to me that held M.B.A.’s from the top business schools in the world – all brilliant people. When I went to Gallo and asked for an interview, they told me I didn’t have an M.B.A. so they wouldn’t interview me. I asked if it made sense that I had people working for me with MBA’s. It made no difference; this just didn’t make sense to me.

As for Mondavi, I experienced the same thing; no MBA, no interview! They could not care less that I could actually distill Gin and make wine. I was a marketing expert coming to them willing to take a huge cut in salary in exchange for an opportunity to work for them yet they were not interested.

"I was the Brand Manager for the largest brand in the country. It was a great experience because I learned more in a year than I had learned in the past five years.

 

On the contrary, Kendall-Jackson was looking for somebody that had deep wine knowledge and passion, however having no experience in the wine industry. They wanted a consumer perspective, and wouldn’t you know it, they choose me for the job. At the time, I knew K-J was a big brand, but what I did not know is that it

was the finest brand in the industry. So literally overnight, I was the Brand Manager for the largest brand in the country. I would commute from Oakland to Santa Rosa every day for four months. It was a great experience because I learned more in a year than I had learned in the past five years. I really found my place in this role for it allowed me to get involved in every aspect of the operation. I obtained a phenomenal amount of knowledge I could not have gained anywhere else.

I understand that you had a moment of inspiration, where everything seemed to fall into place. Could you elaborate on your moment of inspiration?

After joining Kendall-Jackson as a Brand Marketing manager, I had to deliver a speech to forty industry veterans. My focus revolved around passion – why the consumer loved the K-J brand and why people wanted to learn more about wine. In the middle of my speech, I stated, "The reason people drink our wine is because it inspires them. People celebrate falling in love; christening a new boat; celebrating achievements all while drinking our wines".

The industry veterans rose to there feet and gave me a standing ovation! Later, a seasoned veteran came over to me and as he firmly shook my hand and said,

"The reason people drink our wine is because it inspires them…"

"Thank you for reminding me why I’ve loved wine for so long". I knew at that moment that I had a gift and a purpose. I immediately set out to craft wines that inspire people.

What originally drew you to the Sonoma region and what lead you to decide on this appellation over others?

To me it was simple. I know all the regions very well; Sonoma, Napa, Lake, Santa Barbara, Monterey, and Paso Robles – and every region executes certain varietals very well.

Sonoma Region
Sonoma Region

For example, I think the Chardonnay’s in Santa Barbara are phenomenal. However, the one thing that I found is that Sonoma is the most diverse. You have the Chardonnay’s along the coast, the Pinot’s in Russian River, the Cab’s and Merlot’s up in the mountains; it is just an incredibly diverse region.

I don’t mean to simplify things, however we in the industry like to divide Northern Napa and the Alexander Valley and Knights Valley portions of Sonoma in half with a county line. In reality it is really one long mountain range that extends from Napa into Sonoma called the Mayacamas. I believe there is the same potential of superior wine found in the Napa side like Spring Mountain as there is on the Sonoma side like Alexander Valley.

I think Sonoma is a sleeping giant in terms of the ability to make extremely high quality fruit like Napa. However, Sonoma can also produce other varietals that Napa struggles with making premium. I truly believe Sonoma is the finest wine region in California.

Tell us what it’s like to be the founder for a small, ’boutique’ winery – one that’s sometimes competing with major labels who’ve got big money backing.

It’s a very humbling experience. You learn a lot about yourself and candidly there are very few times of joy. Most people see the sexy side of the industry, but ninety-five percent of the time, you are making very difficult decisions and it is very hard work. It branches between the physical and emotional sides and it’s scientific as well as artistic. What we strive for is that one time we look in the bottle and everyone says,

"Most people see the sexy side of the industry, but ninety-five percent of the time it is very hard work".

 

"Man, that’s a great bottle of wine!" That is all you need to continue back into the ninety-five percent pain level threshold; but the level of accomplishment makes it all worthwhile.

Who or what is your biggest competition?

For our high end merlot blend "Ispiri" there is not many Sonoma wines that are in direct competition because it’s a mountain blend with Merlot at its base. However, there are a few that do it very well like Peter Michael or Vérité; both follow the right-bank of Bordeaux style of wine making at a very high-level.

At some point soon, I believe that we will compete against the Pahlmeyer red wine blends of the world; and for our Pinot Noir, we are competing with Russian River wineries like Williams Selyem. I think we are off to a very promising and excellent start.

What are some of the biggest challenges you’ve encountered opening a new winery?

Number one is dealing with the "unknown" and surprises from the vineyards, to wine, to people; there are so many unknowns when starting a new winery – a massive amount of unknowns!

Then there is being unsure in your direction; constantly second guessing yourself; not knowing where things will be next year or in three years. Then there is the significant expectation of success; it’s all very challenging.

Finally, we have the dynamics of personalities. On one side we have Winemakers which are brilliant artists that are also analytical scientists. They are intelligent individuals that have strong opinions and ideas. Then we have the sales guy. He’s sees the world from a retailer or wholesalers point of view, which is excellent, because selling the wine can be as challenging as making it. They are typically opinionated as well, but they are the first to turn their sleeves up and set out to take on challenges.

Then on the flip side you have the business manager who is a bit more conservative. They speak mostly in logical terms, making sure we’re asking all the right questions, focused on the right tasks, and staying true to our plans. Finally, you add me into the equation. I’m a type-A, somewhat of a ego-drive, wear my heart on my sleeve, talk a lot guy that is also keenly aware of my misgivings as much as my strengths.

We have a significant amount of dynamics with incredibly diverse personalities, and to me that is what makes a brand truly unique. The experience, energy, passion and diversity we collectively offer makes this venture very exciting. When one of us has challenges, the others provide the crutch. Its humbling as well as rewarding, however given the balance I believe it will be the sole reason we not only survive but prosper in a very challenging industry.

What was your most hair-raising moment in the wine business?

Well, as you know, at times in the summer the cellars slightly warm up and the barrels will expand. This will sometimes cause a bung to pop out. It’s nobody’s fault, it just happens. [Sigh], this whole big beautiful barrel of wine containing twenty-five cases of wine goes down the drain! But this is part of the wine making process. You have to accept things like this are going to happen and make sure you make the right decision to maintain the high standard of wine quality. It doesn’t make it any easier. That night, you toss back a full glass of wine, stare at the wall for a moment, smile and move forward knowing you made the right decision to not include this wine into the blend.

Your winemaker is the same person who used to makes wine for Kendall-Jackson correct?

Yes. Leslie Sisneros is a 14-year veteran at Kendall-Jackson. She is now part owner of Eric Guerra winery and she is the consulting winemaker for the prestigious Arista winery which focuses on Russian River Pinot Noir.

I have the utmost respect for Leslie, for she has a vast amount of experience. She managed a very large facility so she saw it all, overseeing the winemaking for everything from Mendocino Zinfandel, Russian River Pinot and Santa Barbara Chardonnay – she has seen and done everything and nothing fazes her.

Winemaker Leslie Sisneros
Eric Guerra's Winemaker Leslie Sisneros

She might not be as well known as some of the other industry woman winemakers, but she has worked side-by-side with most of the top recognized winemakers, and to me that says it all.

In addition to her experience, I respect her tenacious determination. This is a very hard industry to be in and her ability to stand up to me and others is very much valued. Her personality emanates through our product – it’s not only bold, but it’s balanced with elegance for which only she can achieve and that’s what I love about her.

For someone who does not know your wines, how would you describe them?

Our wines are intense with elegance!

How did you decide on your varietals?

I fell in love with Merlot when I had my first glass of Pride Mountain Merlot; then I had a glass of Shafer Merlot; then a glass of Duckhorn Merlot. I love the Cab’s as much as everybody else – as a matter of fact, I love everything; Albariño, Champagnes, dessert wines – I am a big fan of all wines. However, when I tasted the Pride Mountain Merlot, that was it! I could not believe a wine could taste that good.

Then I began to try all the top Merlot blends; Château Cheval Blanc, Pétrus, and Château Haut-Brion – they all try to get as much Merlot in their blend with some having a minimum of 60-65%. Many lovers of first growths do not know this. They think they are drinking a big Cab.

Into the hopper for destemming & crushing
Into the hopper for destemming & crushing

Early on I was fortunate to speak with John Shafer. I remember he said something to me I will never forgot. He said, "You know what? There has to be day-traders. There is going to be varietals like Viognier that will come and go. However, we decided to stay with the blue chips – the Cab’s, the Merlots. The varietals that have been proven for hundred’s

of years and will continue to be the big boys moving forward". He continued to say, "…Some people put down Merlot. I don’t think they truly understand the potential of this incredible grape. Merlot is harder than any wine you would ever imagine, but when you make a fine one, you know you got it right".

As a result, this is why I decided to focus on a Merlot-based wine. We are also making Sonoma-based Pinot’s and the Cab’s – it’s simply that our mostly Merlot-blend is our flagship wine because I think it’s a wine style that resonates with consumers, ages well, can be big but also elegant, food friendly and overall a more completely balanced wine.

How many acres do you have planted for each varietal?

We buy everything and we did this on purpose. First off, owning a vineyard is great, but it has its downside. When you own a vineyard, you have to prove it to yourself that this has to be the fillet mignon of the steak. If not, you have a dead vineyard and sometimes forced to use sub-quality fruit.

We wanted the flexibility to explore Sonoma; essentially find the fillet mignon in the area. Then, work with our growers over the years to develop the fruit to even a higher level.
"We buy our grapes because we wanted the flexibility to explore Sonoma [to find the cream of the crop]"

So what are your standards when looking for the cream of the crop?

The obvious is if a grower doesn’t meet our expectations, then we move on. Second, they have to be mountain based Cab’s or Merlot. We are big fans of mountain fruit because this fruit is far more intense and complex than anything we’ve ever had. Finally, they need to have a passion for their craft and the willingness to constantly strive for a higher-level. A trusting, open relationship with our grower is very important to our overall ability to succeed.

How many cases are you producing?

Currently, we offer the 2005 Alexander Valley Ispiri – 410 cases. We produced 100 cases of the 2005 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and the 2006 Russian River Pinot Noir – 70 cases.

As far as buying your fruit, do you favor a particular vineyard/grower right now?

Pine Mountain Vineyards
Pine Mountain Vineyards

Demattei Vineyards – Pine MountainDemattei Vineyards

 

I will say we favor the region, not so much the grower – Pine Mountain. We believe we found a jewel.

It is the farthest mountain in the Mayacamas Mountain range in Sonoma right on the border of Sonoma and Mendocino.

Elevation starts at 1100 feet and continues to climb to 2400 ft. where it has an inverse climate so when it is foggy down in the valley it’s sunny up on the mountain.

It really is a phenomenal area. We pick late October to early November and we get that acid and sugar balance we are looking for.

Are you looking at any new varietals?

We will always look for ways to improve our wines, especially Ispiri. Most wineries will come out of the gate and say ‘our wine is the perfect wine’. I chose not to say that to consumers because I want them to take this journey with us. I want them to explore Ispiri with us over the next twenty years as we continue to improve it, add to it, and take pieces away from it. It’s a baby now. It will grow and imporve but the face will always be the same.

Did the first bottle of wine you produce match your expectations?

It absolutely exceeded my expectations, but it does not surprise me because of Leslie’s abilities.

Anything in particular surprise you about the final product of any of your wines? Is there anything you would change about your wines?

The only thing that surprised me is how they so nicely balance intensity with elegance and how close we were able to reach our initial goal. When our Merlot fruit came in, I was quite worried how it looked due to some grape shattering but Leslie said, "Eric, some of the best looking fruit makes some of the worst wine; and some of the worst looking fruit makes some of the best wines. Don’t worry".

I also recall about two years ago receiving sparse Cabernet Sauvignon clusters with little pea sized grapes that didn’t look all that great, but it was some of the best barrels we produced that vintage. It has this chocolate backbone integrated with espresso. Leslie and I take up a smile each time we have a glass as we can taste the vineyard.
Bottle line – capsule applicationGuerra bottle line - capsule application

Did you decide the price-point for your wines to cover their cost plus a small profit or did you decide their cost based on the income needed to experience these wines?

When we decided to launch the wine, we never let the profitability or margin get in the way. I wanted to give people the opportunity to taste the wine and make their mind up what the price should be. Therefore, if they think our wine is incredible and that it should sit with the $70 wines, then the demand will drive the price. However, if they believe it is a good wine for the price-point it is now, then we will sit at that price. It is not for me to dictate. That is where I think many brands go wrong. I think is a bit of an arrogant statement for me to launch with a $70 bottle of wine – essentially, what are you telling everyone?

Is there a particular target audience you are seeking with the style of your wines?

Yes, it’s the passionate explorers; explorers don’t like to be pitched, they like to find things. I like to be the ‘long in the road’. I don’t want them to see me, but I want to make sure I’m in a place where they trip over me, finding our wine by themselves. Then, the quality takes it from there.

…and Women. I think Women are embracing big wines and they are looking beyond Chardonnay’s and Champagnes. I would love to attract this demographic as well.

If you had a large budget, what wines would you buy besides your own and why?

Guerra’s "Ispiri"
Eric Guerra's "Ispiri"

If you don’t mind, I am going to twist the question a bit. If I was on a sinking ship and I had the opportunity to drink my last three bottles of wine, one of them would be my own for sentimental reasons.

Another would be the Pride Mountain Merlot because it ties into my moment of inspiration.

The third would be a fine Champagne as it has taught me the delicate beauty and elegance of what wine can ultimately become.

As far as selling your wines, what outlet is most important? Retail? Restaurants? Sales at the winery?

The direct consumer relationship is paramount for us. Restaurant and retail
comes in at a close second.

So what’s next for Eric Guerra winery?

Keep breathing! I take every day as a special day and I embrace all the challenges and successes that come our way. At times, I will be walking to my Jeep or jogging down the road and I have to stop to stare at the clouds as they surround the Sonoma mountain tops. It’s just so amazing, so dramatic. It makes me feel alive. I constantly remind myself how fortunate I am to be doing what I do. The wine industry is truly inspirational. I hope that everyone will take this journey with me and embrace our enduring story together.

For more information, visit Eric Guerra’s website.

~ Pamela Heiligenthal, Correspondent & Senior Editor, Enobytes

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